First 10 days in Buenos Aires - 3 - 10 March, 2008

I can't believe it's been 10 days already and at the same time, I feel like I've been here forever!

The first week was spent walking around the city - getting to know my neighbourhood and familiarizing myself with where to shop, banks, supermarkets, buy fresh fruit, landmarks and places of interest. I made a conscious decision not to refer to any guide books and not do anything touristic in the typical sense - not even take photographs unless it's a not-to-be-missed moment - just used a non-tourist map to find my way. It has been interesting finding surprises around the corner as I wandered around various parts of the city and explored some of them in greater details, saved others for later. This week I started using the local bus and subway system - the subway is simple and very easy to use. The buses are a challenge - very efficient system but have not found anyone who speaks English to explain how to use it yet.

The three interesting discoveries I have made:

1. The cemetery where some of the famous names of Argentine history are buried, e.g. Eva Peron - it is a stunning place (the whole cemetery) - saved most of it for later. I had just an hour for a walk before meeting someone for coffee and discovered it by sheer chance - there's also a bazaar just outside the cemetery on weekends so will probably go back there this Saturday and spend the day there.

2. The Eva Peron museum. Again, just walked into it by sheer chance while exploring north of where I live. The zoo and botanical gardens are in that direction (indicated on the map) and I had hoped to spend some time exploring those, but had to save them for another day. The museum was a quick history lesson into Eva's life and learned that she fought for the rights of women to vote and be voted - if she had lived longer she might have done much more - whether it would have been for the good of all is another question! Quite a woman! They have some black and white footage of archives from her days - very interesting. I ended my visit there with a relaxed lunch at the restaurant on the ground floor, out on the patio, under the sun. Grilled fish with mango sauce, grilled potatoes and arougla. And a shot (could they have served less?) of sabaglione (sp?) for dessert. Yummmmmm.

3. I did a cycling tour of the city during rush hour traffic and was amazed, that despite the traffic being like Bombay - with 16 million people in BA and with black and yellow cabs - it's easy to be like Bombay! - people actually slowed down and didn't even overtake us until it was safe. That's not to say the roads are normally safe; I have been warned to take care on the roads, but I must say, I was impressed. Starting at 9.30am we finished at 1.30 - cycling From San Martin square to the Retiro, the ports, through the newest development of Buenos Aires by the old ports across the bridge to the ecological reserve, to La Boca, the Italian District - a coffee break with a taste of Dulce de Leche - a hot favorite among locals - a sandwich of cookies with caramelized milk - divine! to San Telmo, the Italian district, where Buenos Aires and the Tango was first established. San Telmo looked different from my first visit last Sunday when the weekend market was in full swing with handicraft shops, buskers, musicians and tango dancers crowding the street - it happens every weekend and is a must do - even for the locals. It's full of life and color and antiques. Apparently the antique shops opened when the rich people living in the area abandoned their homes and moved further north when there was an outbreak of the plague (or black fever) in the early 1900's - the new immigrants who moved to Buenos Aires moved into their homes and started selling the things they found in there to survive - the shops just stayed...

I have been discovering different Tango studios over the past 10 days - there are so many and all the teachers I have been to so far have been good - each with their own style. I attended my first Spanish lesson at the University this morning - a good start. I can now ask and give my name, where I am from, my nationality and where I live and what I do in Spanish - a greater challenge for me since most others had only one place for 3 of the facts above - I had an interesting time explaining my situation - born Indian, NZ Citizen living in NY!

I visited the Indian embassy today at the Ambassador's invitation - an impressive office overlooking the Plata river. No waiting in lines here - you sit in a huge lounge and you get coffee with you visa - the sign says 'Visa con Cafe'! I had had dinner with Vishwathan and his wife Kasthuri and their son last Saturday night at a very good Indian restaurant that is owned by Inna's friend, Shahrukh, just around the corner from my apartment.

I finally met Vir's friend Gloria today - will be catching up with her again next week (Vir - Anil is arriving here tomorrow in case you didn't know).

I am going to have lunch with Monica, an Argentinian friend of Anu's from Bombay whom I had met while I was there in December. She just arrived on Sunday for a 3 month holiday and lives in San Telmo - close to where I go to Uni. Will be nice having a few friends around town - I feel like I actually live here.

I haven't been for a good Argentinean steak yet but have had a few empanadas - like a meat samosa. A quick snack food. I have been cooking for myself - made khichree today - as usual, there's enough for 20 people and no space in the fridge to keep it! I avoid eating too much at dinner though that's when most people meet here. Some restaurants don't even open for lunch! Kash - this is for you - the ice cream here is good!.

Chau for now.