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I did it - I graduated from Tango Level 1 to Level 2, finally! I was 'tested' and passed muster dancing with the teachers and some of the better students... I feel I have arrived. Now it may be easier to go to a milonga... watch this space.
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The week has flown past - full and packed with activity. I spent a lot of my time walking again - visited the Recoleta Cemetary twice and finally did a tour of the place with an English speaking guide. The guide had a sense of humor and had many interesting stories to tell about the place and Argentine history. The most interesting ones were about how the bodies of various famous people are often moved from one burial place to another even 20 years after their deaths, depending on who wants to do what with them... looks like RIP has no meaning here! It lasted for 2 1/2 hours - much longer than I had expected... of course, it cut into a Tango class I had planned to attend, but it was worth giving up one class for. The English tour happens only on Tuesday and Thursday at 11am; ther's a Tango lesson every day from 9am till midnight!
The other interesting thing about the burials here - none of the bodies/caskets are actually buried underground - they are all just placed in the 'house' belonging to the family. The Cemetary is like a little city with avenues, streets and houses, and the guide referred to the people who live there - a living breathing place for the dead....
A revisit to La Boca was on the cards after my cycling tour. When Carol mentioned she wanted to go, I hopped onto the bus with her and we spent hours walking around, window shopping, eating and drinking the whole afternoon... got home tired and dead beat but satiated in every way - delightful atmosphere with live music, tango dancers on the street and lots of people because it was a public holiday for Easter.
I had a very interesting Milonga class this week (I have only ever done 2 before this - it's a form of Tango done to faster music with a little bit of a swing to the movements). I managed to dance freestyle with a good dancer - he didn't realize I was a beginner - I was over the moon! It is a very satisfying feeling knowing that the time I am putting into learning is paying off!
As for Spanish lessons - they are progressing - I understand a lot more of what people say now . We have had 3 different teachers over the 4 lectures I have attended because of the Easter holidays . Hopefully it will settle down from next week. I learn a lot from watching CIS and Law and Order and reading the subtitles - watched more tv since I have been here than I ever did in New York!
My dream - owning a pair of real tango shoes - finally came true this week. And I am breaking into them - danced for 3 hours and survived! Quite a feat for my bunioned feet in high heels - 3".
Walking around has taken me through some of the places portenos don't go unless they have to - wholesale markets for fabric, sewing implements, buttons and beads, wholesale electrical and household markets and everything in between that you can think of... all on my search for Tango shoes or studios - an interesting way of exploring the city. I have eaten empanadas till I almost feel like one. I keep saying I must try something else but they are so 'eatable' on the run that I eventually end up with one or two and keep running on my way to wherever I was headed. Most have been reasonably good. Mind you, when you're hungry almost anything tastes good. Fresh fruit smoothies are amazing here. A huge jug/glass full for 6 - 8 pesos. Ask for Liquida Tutti Fruitti if you ever end up here - it's a mixed fruit smoothie and you get whatever they decide to mix into it. You can ask for it with milk or water (it si too thick to drink otherwise).
A visit to the Fine Arts Museum which is just behind the Recoleta Cemetary, both walking distance from my apartment, is a crash course on Argentinian art. Gives a very interesting insight into what the country and it's people used to be like. Some paintings, mostly done by European settlers, are quite stunning. It also has an extensive impressionist/European art collection.
I met up with Udai, a young, adventurous fellow Indian traveling the South American continent for a few months. Gave up his job with Microsoft in Bangalore (or take a long leave of absense - not sure) to do a round-the-world trip - just my type of spirit. He was introduced to me by Mr Vishwanathan, the Indian Ambassaddor. He's off to Chile and Peru then will also visit New Zealand before heading to Japan and Mongolia.
Stumbled upon the Museum of Hispanoamrican History and Art on one of my excursions. Interesting how much of a focus it has on religion where the Museum of Fine Arts had almost no mention of it. The mansion the museusm is housed in was donated by the owner along with the entire collection. Amazing how a place like this can exist in the middle of the city - with a beautiful garden and massive trees - an oasis of peace surrounded by skyscrapers. It has explanations (in Spanish) of how the lure of finding the Inca civilization with it's wealth of gold and silver attracted European settlers to this part of the world - thanks to Carol who translated for me, I was able to learn a little more than I would have otherwise of the history of how the various regions of this continent came to be.
Easter Sunday Carol, Udai and I decided to leave the city - we headed out to Tigre and San Isidro for a cycling tour - the best thing to do because there wasn't much to do in the city with it being a public holiday. A 40 minute train ride - believe it or not, it cost all of 1.10 pesos! - got us to our destination. I swear I could have been in India; the sights were so familiar - the towns, streets, shops, rooftops, construction - it could have been anywhere along the railway lines from Bombay to Pune or Delhi to anywhere! Just maybe not as crowded!
Tigre was stunningly beautiful. It is a 'beach resort' at the delta of the river Parana - many portenos from Buenos Aires own 'beach homes' in Tigre and go there for weekends and holidays - being Easter Sunday it was busy! Looked like the whole city had decided go to there to spend a beautiful sunny day out and have fun! We sure did!
The railway station itself was beautifully built - a huge brick walled room covered by a high ceiling/roof made of wood. A ride out and across the river took us to a tree lined avenue that meandered along one of the rivulets (for a better word) - the water looks filthy because it is full of sediments but they say it is not really that badly polluted - people do swim in parts of it. And catch fish to eat - I would worry about what's in them, but the locals certainly don't! We landed up at what used to be a casino in the 1900's but is now an arts museum - a stunning building from the belle epoque with stained-glass windows. The whole area has been beautifully landscaped and is a delight to visit. I have to go back and walk around there and visit the museum itself for which we didn't have time.
There's a thriving weekend market in Tigre where lots of happy people browe around for that special something - mainly handicrafts though they aren't necessarily local - lots of African masks and Asian clothes, etc. The market used to be a fruit market when fruit was the local produce - river sediments have put paid to that and now the fruit orchards have been replaced by wood plantations - so you find lots of solid wood furniture, some of it beautifully made. There were thick slabs of wood you could use for a rustic kitchen table - good for a country home! Again, I must go back to explore and take in the atmosphere - it was very welcoming and interesting.
We caught the train again to San Isidro, though had to abort the journey a station before we arrived - half the train's doors wouldn't open - we had to get off, so our guides decided to punish us by cycling to San Isidro - they must have thought we looked fit enough though I really had to test my will-power to keep going - I couldn't lose face in front of all the youngsters! - all the better for stronger legs for dancing - something good had to come out of it! It was worth it because the ride through the tiny town and country lanes was beautiful - it's very green and the streets are all tree-lined with quaint looking houses - some of them stunningly beautiful mansions, others that looked like little dolls houses - very small and cosy. We stopped at the 'beach' - a green grassed area (there's no sand to speak of - just a few rocks that I didn't see anyone venturing towards) where portenos from Buenos Aires escape to for some fun in the sun. There's a restaurant that serves a sumptuous buffet that looked tempting - unfortunately we had already eaten when we stopped at the market! Also spotted a weekend antiques/flea market that Carol and I plan to go back to. We finally got home later than expected but more than satisfied with a good day out in the sun.
And that wasn't the end of the day - came home for a quick 40 winks, showered and went out to a Cuban restaurant for a meal - Oye Chico! Food was so-so but got to dance Salsa again after ages - met Jorge - a Cuban Salsa teacher/professional performer and danced with him - got his stamp of approval on my dancing! We (Carol and Paula were with me) then went to a milonga though it turned out to be Swing night - so did some swing and some Tango. My first LATE night ended at 2am... I can't really say I have been to a milonga yet - it wasn't the real thing... so....
I continue on my discovery walks and enjoy myself - still have to go to a big Milonga - hopefully will do it this coming week.
Chou chou till next time
I did it - I graduated from Tango Level 1 to Level 2, finally! I was 'tested' and passed muster dancing with the teachers and some of the better students... I feel I have arrived. Now it may be easier to go to a milonga... watch this space.
---------------------------------------------------
The week has flown past - full and packed with activity. I spent a lot of my time walking again - visited the Recoleta Cemetary twice and finally did a tour of the place with an English speaking guide. The guide had a sense of humor and had many interesting stories to tell about the place and Argentine history. The most interesting ones were about how the bodies of various famous people are often moved from one burial place to another even 20 years after their deaths, depending on who wants to do what with them... looks like RIP has no meaning here! It lasted for 2 1/2 hours - much longer than I had expected... of course, it cut into a Tango class I had planned to attend, but it was worth giving up one class for. The English tour happens only on Tuesday and Thursday at 11am; ther's a Tango lesson every day from 9am till midnight!
The other interesting thing about the burials here - none of the bodies/caskets are actually buried underground - they are all just placed in the 'house' belonging to the family. The Cemetary is like a little city with avenues, streets and houses, and the guide referred to the people who live there - a living breathing place for the dead....
A revisit to La Boca was on the cards after my cycling tour. When Carol mentioned she wanted to go, I hopped onto the bus with her and we spent hours walking around, window shopping, eating and drinking the whole afternoon... got home tired and dead beat but satiated in every way - delightful atmosphere with live music, tango dancers on the street and lots of people because it was a public holiday for Easter.
I had a very interesting Milonga class this week (I have only ever done 2 before this - it's a form of Tango done to faster music with a little bit of a swing to the movements). I managed to dance freestyle with a good dancer - he didn't realize I was a beginner - I was over the moon! It is a very satisfying feeling knowing that the time I am putting into learning is paying off!
As for Spanish lessons - they are progressing - I understand a lot more of what people say now . We have had 3 different teachers over the 4 lectures I have attended because of the Easter holidays . Hopefully it will settle down from next week. I learn a lot from watching CIS and Law and Order and reading the subtitles - watched more tv since I have been here than I ever did in New York!
My dream - owning a pair of real tango shoes - finally came true this week. And I am breaking into them - danced for 3 hours and survived! Quite a feat for my bunioned feet in high heels - 3".Walking around has taken me through some of the places portenos don't go unless they have to - wholesale markets for fabric, sewing implements, buttons and beads, wholesale electrical and household markets and everything in between that you can think of... all on my search for Tango shoes or studios - an interesting way of exploring the city. I have eaten empanadas till I almost feel like one. I keep saying I must try something else but they are so 'eatable' on the run that I eventually end up with one or two and keep running on my way to wherever I was headed. Most have been reasonably good. Mind you, when you're hungry almost anything tastes good. Fresh fruit smoothies are amazing here. A huge jug/glass full for 6 - 8 pesos. Ask for Liquida Tutti Fruitti if you ever end up here - it's a mixed fruit smoothie and you get whatever they decide to mix into it. You can ask for it with milk or water (it si too thick to drink otherwise).
A visit to the Fine Arts Museum which is just behind the Recoleta Cemetary, both walking distance from my apartment, is a crash course on Argentinian art. Gives a very interesting insight into what the country and it's people used to be like. Some paintings, mostly done by European settlers, are quite stunning. It also has an extensive impressionist/European art collection.
I met up with Udai, a young, adventurous fellow Indian traveling the South American continent for a few months. Gave up his job with Microsoft in Bangalore (or take a long leave of absense - not sure) to do a round-the-world trip - just my type of spirit. He was introduced to me by Mr Vishwanathan, the Indian Ambassaddor. He's off to Chile and Peru then will also visit New Zealand before heading to Japan and Mongolia.
Stumbled upon the Museum of Hispanoamrican History and Art on one of my excursions. Interesting how much of a focus it has on religion where the Museum of Fine Arts had almost no mention of it. The mansion the museusm is housed in was donated by the owner along with the entire collection. Amazing how a place like this can exist in the middle of the city - with a beautiful garden and massive trees - an oasis of peace surrounded by skyscrapers. It has explanations (in Spanish) of how the lure of finding the Inca civilization with it's wealth of gold and silver attracted European settlers to this part of the world - thanks to Carol who translated for me, I was able to learn a little more than I would have otherwise of the history of how the various regions of this continent came to be.
Easter Sunday Carol, Udai and I decided to leave the city - we headed out to Tigre and San Isidro for a cycling tour - the best thing to do because there wasn't much to do in the city with it being a public holiday. A 40 minute train ride - believe it or not, it cost all of 1.10 pesos! - got us to our destination. I swear I could have been in India; the sights were so familiar - the towns, streets, shops, rooftops, construction - it could have been anywhere along the railway lines from Bombay to Pune or Delhi to anywhere! Just maybe not as crowded!
Tigre was stunningly beautiful. It is a 'beach resort' at the delta of the river Parana - many portenos from Buenos Aires own 'beach homes' in Tigre and go there for weekends and holidays - being Easter Sunday it was busy! Looked like the whole city had decided go to there to spend a beautiful sunny day out and have fun! We sure did!
The railway station itself was beautifully built - a huge brick walled room covered by a high ceiling/roof made of wood. A ride out and across the river took us to a tree lined avenue that meandered along one of the rivulets (for a better word) - the water looks filthy because it is full of sediments but they say it is not really that badly polluted - people do swim in parts of it. And catch fish to eat - I would worry about what's in them, but the locals certainly don't! We landed up at what used to be a casino in the 1900's but is now an arts museum - a stunning building from the belle epoque with stained-glass windows. The whole area has been beautifully landscaped and is a delight to visit. I have to go back and walk around there and visit the museum itself for which we didn't have time.
There's a thriving weekend market in Tigre where lots of happy people browe around for that special something - mainly handicrafts though they aren't necessarily local - lots of African masks and Asian clothes, etc. The market used to be a fruit market when fruit was the local produce - river sediments have put paid to that and now the fruit orchards have been replaced by wood plantations - so you find lots of solid wood furniture, some of it beautifully made. There were thick slabs of wood you could use for a rustic kitchen table - good for a country home! Again, I must go back to explore and take in the atmosphere - it was very welcoming and interesting.
We caught the train again to San Isidro, though had to abort the journey a station before we arrived - half the train's doors wouldn't open - we had to get off, so our guides decided to punish us by cycling to San Isidro - they must have thought we looked fit enough though I really had to test my will-power to keep going - I couldn't lose face in front of all the youngsters! - all the better for stronger legs for dancing - something good had to come out of it! It was worth it because the ride through the tiny town and country lanes was beautiful - it's very green and the streets are all tree-lined with quaint looking houses - some of them stunningly beautiful mansions, others that looked like little dolls houses - very small and cosy. We stopped at the 'beach' - a green grassed area (there's no sand to speak of - just a few rocks that I didn't see anyone venturing towards) where portenos from Buenos Aires escape to for some fun in the sun. There's a restaurant that serves a sumptuous buffet that looked tempting - unfortunately we had already eaten when we stopped at the market! Also spotted a weekend antiques/flea market that Carol and I plan to go back to. We finally got home later than expected but more than satisfied with a good day out in the sun.
And that wasn't the end of the day - came home for a quick 40 winks, showered and went out to a Cuban restaurant for a meal - Oye Chico! Food was so-so but got to dance Salsa again after ages - met Jorge - a Cuban Salsa teacher/professional performer and danced with him - got his stamp of approval on my dancing! We (Carol and Paula were with me) then went to a milonga though it turned out to be Swing night - so did some swing and some Tango. My first LATE night ended at 2am... I can't really say I have been to a milonga yet - it wasn't the real thing... so....
I continue on my discovery walks and enjoy myself - still have to go to a big Milonga - hopefully will do it this coming week.
2 comments:
Hello Mamta,
I had no doubts that your adventures in BA would be anything but spectacular. Enjoyed reading your entries and to think that you have done so much and met all the interesting folks in such a short period of time.
I will enjoy BA and your free-spirited travels vicariously through the blog, so keep it flowing! lots of hugs, Punam
I like very much your post! I hope to have the similar exprience when I visit there. Im looking for an apartment in Buenos Aires. Wich places do you recommend me to visit?
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